A dart is a basic element that almost every pattern contains. Thanks to a simple short seam, the figure looks slimmer and more graceful. Making darts on a dress or jacket yourself is not difficult; it is important to correctly calculate the measurements and choose the optimal location. This element is used throughout to give a unique silhouette. The model with darts looks elegant, the product itself has a finished appearance.
Transferring the chest dart to the side seam with the top offset
The most common version of the bodice is decorated with invisible side darts. Seamstresses actively use this detail in their work - it is relatively easy to model and sew. In some cases, it is necessary to transfer the darts on the bodice. This is especially important when designing and altering models based on the figure. It should be taken into account that when moving the main dart, its top may move, so it is advisable to make a preliminary drawing.Correctly placed seams will help highlight the patterns on the fabric and emphasize the originality of the material. Most often they are used on shirts, dresses, and blouses. How to transfer a chest dart:
- Find the lowest point on the armhole.
- Set aside six centimeters along the side seam. The parameter may vary depending on the cut and type of product.
- We take the pattern and mark the point of the center of the chest - CG.
- We lengthen the dart on the chest, connecting its end points with the CG. In this case, it is the CG that is the top of the seam.
- From the connection point we draw a line to the top of the CG.
- We cut the paper template along the segment that we modeled.
- We close the gap of the chest dart, the side sewing line opens.
- It must be reduced by two centimeters. The transfer of the chest dart is completed.
Transferring the dart to the side seam without moving the top
The second method of moving a small chest seam to the sides does not involve moving the top. It does not move to the center of the chest, remaining in place. In this case it is necessary:
- Find the lowest point on the armhole and set aside five centimeters to the bottom. It is necessary to focus on the features of the product model. You may have to set aside a larger or smaller portion.
- We connect the resulting point with the center of the chest.
- We cut the pattern from the side seam to the CG.
- We make a cut along one side and close the resulting gap. You will need another cut to close the dart. It originates on the side of the product and reaches the center of the chest.
- Connect the two sides using adhesive tape.
- The opening of the side dart is noted. In this case, its depth is formed automatically.
- We shorten the resulting gap by one and a half centimeters. The top will move slightly to the left of the CG.
- It is the shortened darts that maximally emphasize the contour of the chest.In this case, sharp corners are not formed, the product does not bulge or stick out at the bend.
Where to iron breast darts on a dress, how to transfer them
Any fabric requires constant ironing during the sewing process. In most cases, the dart is smoothed into the middle. When stitching the gap, you should smoothly move towards the edge so that the dart disappears. A properly constructed structure has the shape of an elongated triangle.
The seam always starts at the waist and gradually moves to the bottom of the product along the length of the decorative element. Other rules for sewing darts:
- After completing the seam, tie the thread into a neat knot. To draw the remaining threads inward, use a hook or needle.
- We must iron all elements with an iron. It is advisable to use a special pillow. We place the item face down on it, moisten the pillow with water and wring it out. If it is too wet, use a slightly heated iron when ironing.
- It is customary to smooth breast darts towards the bottom of the product at the waist. The relief is pressed to the center of the outfit. In some cases, they are stitched across the front using finishing stitches.
Transferring a chest dart to a neckline - how to transfer a dart
To transfer the dart to the neckline, it is necessary to divide the front half along the neckline into two equal parts. We find the top of the dart. We draw a segment to the central mark. Cut the model of the product into sections. We make a cut on one side, where the chest gap is located.
We close the dart by aligning the paper and sealing it with adhesive tape. A new gap opens along the neck. We round it in accordance with the pattern.During the work, fabric remains, which we put into folds or darts. This depends on the chosen style of product.
You can also move the element into folds towards the middle of the front part. Let's draw a segment from the top of the chest gap to the middle of the front part. Let's cut the layout into a segment and one chest dart. Let's close the gap that appears by folding it into folds.
Transferring the dart to the armhole
To move into the armhole, take the basic pattern of the shoulder piece. Working with the top part:
- We trace the outline of the shelf, taking into account all the lines and notches.
- Draw a straight line from the center point to the armhole. The line is drawn in the direction that is initially specified in the model. It can come to any point on the armhole.
- We make a cut along the length to close the gap on the chest, which goes to the shoulder seam. The front armhole dart will automatically open.
- We shorten the length of the top by a few centimeters to avoid the appearance of an acute angle.