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According to their figure, women are divided into 5 main groups:
- A (pear) - chest circumference is smaller than hip circumference by a significant amount.
- O (apple) – waist larger than hips and chest, protruding belly.
- H (rectangle) - approximately the same volumes of the chest, waist and hips.
- V (inverted triangle) – wide shoulders with narrow hips.
- X (hourglass) – voluminous breasts and hips with a narrow waist. Shoulders and hips are approximately equal.
When tailoring products, it is necessary to take into account the type of figure, because with the help of clothes it is possible to hide flaws and highlight the advantages of the image.
Since ancient times, the ideal waist to hip ratio has been considered 0.7 for women and 0.9 for men. This value was achieved by dividing the waist circumference by the pelvic circumference. But not everyone can boast of such a ratio. Most people have non-standard figures, with one or another deviation from the norm and a certain uniqueness.
A non-standard figure is a headache for its owner. It is difficult for such people to choose clothes and many sew them themselves.
Narrow waist and wide hips - how to ensure that the thing you are going to sew fits perfectly? The difference between the waist and hips is one of the most common problems. Having a thin waist is very beautiful, but if you have wide hips, the question of reducing the width of the belt will inevitably arise.
- Hip volume is measured by the circumference along a line located 20 cm down from the top of the pattern (at the widest part).
- Using a table taken from a magazine or the Internet, determine your usual size.
- Measure your waist at the narrowest point and compare it to your size chart. Let's calculate the difference.
If it is 2-4 cm less than indicated in the table, it is enough to sew in the side seams of the trousers - on the sides of each pattern at the top we set aside ¼ of the difference between the volumes in kind and in the table. Connect to a point on the hip line and the adjustment is complete.
- If it differs from the table value by 5-7 cm, the depth of the side seams and darts is adjusted. In the seams we take 1 cm on the front half of the trousers and 4 cm on the back. The excess remaining fabric is taken into the darts.
- If it differs from the table value by more than 8 cm, adjusting only the side seams and darts will not be sufficient. To ensure the product fits correctly on the figure, additional new darts must be inserted.
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How to do it:
Draw the hip lines on the details. We draw 2 vertical lines under the darts so that they are at distances equal to:
1/8 of the hip volume “-2cm” and 1/8 of the volume “+3” - for the front panels of the trousers;
1/8 volume “-4” and 1/8 volume “+3” - for the rear.
We transfer the previous front dart to the line located near the side part, and the one that was at the back - closer to the middle of the product.
The remaining lines are future new darts.
Calculation of new darts:
Divide the difference in waist size by two. Two thirds of this value are the darts on the back part, and one third are on the front.
Using this method, you can correct a figure in which the difference between the waist and hips is 30 cm.
How to widen your hips, sides
Another way to increase the hip circumference by more than 5 cm is to add this number to all seams.
Cut the pattern between the side cut and the dart, move each part of the pattern to the sides by ¼ of the planned size. Place a strip of paper under the cut. Keep in mind that at the waist the new hip line must coincide with the original one. In order for the item to fit correctly, you will need to add more darts. Then a steep hip line will look perfect.
We looked at how to make women's hips from a standard pattern. Knowing the basic principles of changes, you can easily adjust any pattern and, as a result, get a finished product with an excellent fit.
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