Pintucks, folds and gathers at the neckline give the silhouette of a dress or blouse a certain softness and romance. In addition, they serve as a full-fledged replacement for darts, without which it is impossible to achieve the correct fit of the figure and give it volume.
Let's look at how you can convert regular darts into the neck of a product.
Transferring the dart to the neckline. How many there will be is up to you to decide.
We do this:
- Let's prepare a paper pattern for the product;
- We mark the places of future tucks on the neckline;
- Mark the center of the chest and connect it to the tuck points;
- We make cuts along these lines;
- We glue the previous dart and draw lines along which we will sew the resulting pintucks.
Transferring the chest dart into the folds of the neckline. The process is not much different from the previous one:
- Let's make a copy of the base shelf on paper and cut it out;
- Let's move the chest dart to the side. From the point of the middle of the chest, draw a straight line to the side cut - cut;
- Glue the old chest dart together;
- From the point of the middle of the chest we draw 3 lines (we get 2 folds);
- We make cuts along these lines;
- Glue the darts on the side;
- We open new cuts and outline the resulting outline;
- We lay out the folds, pin them together, and adjust the contour of the neckline (it should match the original pattern).
To sew a dress with a gathered neckline, consider moving the dart from the chest to the gathering around the neck.
- We make a copy of the shelf;
- From the point of the center of the chest we draw lines to the neckline and cut;
- Glue the old dart together;
- We lay it out, open the drawn lines, and trace the outline. The new pattern is ready.
How to sew a dress with a gathered neckline, product pattern
Even a novice craftswoman can sew a dress with pintucks at the neck using a simple pattern. A one-piece sleeve dress is the simplest option.
As a material, it is better to choose a fabric that holds its shape well. A dress like this made from stretch cotton or thick knitwear would look great.
Let's start the pattern
1) Determine the fabric consumption for the dress;
2) Take measurements: shoulder width with sleeves, V chest, V waist, V hips, mark the waist line and the length of the dress.
The shelf on the chest will be equal to ¼ of the volume + 2 cm;
At the waist – ¼ waist volume + 2 cm;
On the hips – ¼ V hips + 2 cm;
Measure the length from the shoulder to the waist line;
Length from waist to hips (17-21 cm);
The total length of our dress is 95 cm;
3) Tucks on the neck - the pattern of the part is done like this:
At the top of the shelf, set aside 16 cm from the center towards the shoulder;
Determine the depth of the neck. We will have 10-15 cm (adjust as you wish);
On the back, take a cutout depth of 3-5 cm and set aside 16 cm;
Place the front pattern towards you and tuck the excess fabric along the neckline into the pintucks;
4) Sew all the parts together, insert a zipper 50-60 cm long into the back, and make a vent at the back;
5) Stitch the neckline and sleeves, hem the length and that’s it - the dress is ready!
If you are sewing a dress for a full figure, you need to take into account some nuances. Lush breasts will look neater and more attractive if the dart is made not in one place, but distributed over the figure (in the side, on the chest and in the tucks). Then everything will look organic.
And remember that first everything is built on paper and only in the end is it transferred to fabric.
And with the help of tucks, pleats and gathers, you can completely update your dress, making it fashionable and more attractive.