Most items of clothing need fasteners, and no one will argue that a zipper is one of the most convenient options. However, it does not always decorate the finished product. The hidden zipper is invisible and can be located in any seam of the product. The problem is that it is almost impossible to sew such a fastener correctly without using a special foot. Let's look at it in this article, what it looks like and how to sew in a hidden zipper.
Appearance of the foot for a hidden zipper (photo)
Similar paws can differ greatly from each other in shape, method of fastening, and material:
Shape and fastening:
- full presser foot with screw;
- replaceable sole.
Materials:
- plastic;
- stainless steel;
- metal coated, for example, Teflon.
The disadvantages of plastic feet refers to their fragility and lower strength compared to metal. They are easily damaged by the needle, as well as by the teeth of the rack, which reduces the sliding of the foot.Subsequently, it will be impossible to stitch thin fabrics without the risk of damaging them.
The advantages include low cost and ease of installation.
Important! All devices are characterized by two longitudinal grooves along the sole. The zipper closing mechanism – its spiral – passes through these grooves.
There is no usual cutout at the bottom of the foot in the front part, it is replaced by a small hole through which the needle passes.
Installing the foot
Important! If the legs of your sewing machine are completely removable, then the new accessory must be selected on the “leg”.
Typically it will be necessary unscrew the screw on the foot.
For most modern machine models, it is enough to remove the lower part of the presser foot from the horizontally located round bridge on the leg of the presser foot.
Sew on a hidden zipper
We choose a braid longer than the cutout for it by about 20 mm, which goes down under the bottom bartack on the main fabric. Let's figure it out how to use a special zipper foot.
Stages of work:
- We open the lock.
- We place it with the front side (where the tongue of the slider is visible) on the face of the product parallel to one of the edges of the cut.
- We attach the upper part of the zipper tape to the product with a pin.
- The bottom of the clasp should be lower than the end of the neckline.
- With your thumb we press the spiral of the fastener, as if pushing it away.
- We lift the foot exactly with a groove above the spiral. We place it to the right of the needle.
- Sew the fastener to the mark.
- We close the lock.
- We apply the closed clasp to the second side of the cut.
- The upper part of the braid is pinned to the edge of the cut.
- We open the lock.
- We install the foot, the spiral falls into the groove of the sole of the foot to the left of the needle.
- Sew the lock again from the top to the bottom mark.
- We close the lock.
- We sew the edges of the material from the mark and below, trying to continue the line with which the zipper was sewn.
If you need to shorten a synthetic zipper
Concealed fasteners are found in a small range of sizes, which does not always suit us.
It is not difficult to shorten such a lock, since its spiral is quite thin, and therefore does not require strong fixation:
- We measure the required length.
- Draw a new bottom line.
- Add 1-1.5 cm to the allowance.
- We grab the spiral at the required level with several stitches. Can be duplicated with superglue.
- Trim off the excess length.
- We sew in the fastener.
Concealed zippers are often placed in the side seams, as well as along the back, while the junction remains invisible.
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