The first mention of an extravagant headdress in Rus' dates back to the beginning of the tenth century. At that time there were several varieties of this decoration. And only in the chronicles of the late fourteenth century were they designated as a single type of headdress. Russian women's costume of that time necessarily included a kokoshnik. It differed in its shapes, manufacturing methods and decoration.
IMPORTANT! Only married women were required to wear kokoshniks. In those days when it was considered an item of everyday rather than festive clothing, the kokoshnik was a certain indicator of social status.
Kokoshnik shapes
Depending on the area, it had different forms.
- In the central part countries this crescent. Simple or figured, like flower petals, border. Sometimes in the shape of a triangle.
- In the northern lands It was Rus' flat top cylinder hat.
- In the southern counties it's predominantly cone.
IMPORTANT! With any form of kokoshnik, it necessarily had a light fabric covering the hair.Or the top was covered with a scarf, which was fixed under the chin.
Nowadays, this headdress has also not lost its relevance. Still being an obligatory part of the folk costume, it is necessary at concerts, in theatrical productions of fairy tales, in cinema, and at folk festivals. It is for this reason that today many people wonder how to make a kokoshnik themselves.
This is not difficult to do. And we will explain how to sew a kokoshnik for a girl with your own hands.
Materials and tools for manufacturing
It can be manufactured according to a simplified or somewhat complex scheme. In this case, some artistic abilities and sewing skills will not be superfluous, but the result will be higher.
To work you will need the following.
- Thick cardboard.
- Durable metal wire.
- Velvet, satin.
- Chiffon or veil fabric. Tulle will also work.
- A sewing machine or the ability to sew neat small stitches by hand.
- Pencil, scissors and pliers.
- Beads, artificial pearls, glass beads, rhinestones, silver or gold threads. (Their artificial counterpart, of course). Relief braid.
How to make a pattern
Our pattern will look like this.
Visually, the pattern consists of two parts.
- The lower semicircle with proportions of 14 by 15.6 cm is the suprafrontal part.
- The crescent-shaped top element is the main one.
IMPORTANT! This pattern is universal. For example, petals are drawn along the upper edge. But you can create any other frame.
Making a kokoshnik
Simple option
- The pattern must be transferred to transparent paper and traced on cardboard.
ATTENTION! The lower semicircle is the supra-forehead part, it should be made of satin fabric. It cannot be transferred to a cardboard base.
- Cut out the resulting part. This will be a ready-made main structure if we make according to a simplified scheme.
- We apply our cardboard base to the wrong side of the velvet. Trace and cut out. There should be two such blanks.
IMPORTANT! It is necessary to add a few millimeters of fabric to the existing pattern as a seam allowance.
- We sew from the wrong side, leaving the bottom edge open.
- We turn our velvet trim right side out and insert the form, that is, a cardboard blank, inside.
- The supra-frontal part of the headdress, which we transferred to transparent paper, but did not transfer to cardboard, is copied onto satin fabric. We process the edges. It is appropriate to use a special machine; if it is not available, you can trim it with neat stitches by hand.
- The lower edge of the kokoshnik, reinforced with a cardboard blank, is carefully sewn together with small stitches. Sew on the supra-frontal part.
- We make ribbons; to do this, we cut the satin into two wide strips and sew them together.
- We smooth out and sew each ribbon to the edges of the headdress, which meet on the back of the head. With the help of these tapes it will be securely fixed.
The hard way
- When manufactured in a more complex way We use metal wire rather than cardboard as a frame.
- We lay it out around a cardboard blank and ensure that the shapes and proportions are maintained using pliers. Of course, this requires certain skills and dexterity. But the product will be more durable and weather resistant.
ATTENTION! When working on a complex project, we do not make the supra-frontal part from fabric.
Decorating the kokoshnik
Easy way
If we adhered to the lightweight manufacturing method, then It will be enough to trim the edges with braid.
Sew or glue beads, colored glass, artificial pearls or rhinestones onto the product itself in the form of any shapes or individual elements.
ATTENTION! If, when decorating, you intend to embroider patterns with silver or gold analogue threads, then this should be done in advance. The decoration is done on the front part of our velvet pattern before connecting it to the back part.
Complex option
For complicated production, endurance and patience will be required. The main part of the finished product can be decorated, as in the first method.
But with a wire frame base, the product, as you remember, does not have a supra-frontal part. We need to create it using strings of beads or artificial pearls. You can string them on compacted silk threads, the lower end of which is secured with a large bead in the form of a drop. And attach the upper end to the product. They need to be positioned horizontally, perpendicularly over the entire area of the frontal part.
But This method causes inconvenience, the beads will move and touch the hair.
In the original, these threads are woven together with a mesh in the shape of small diamonds. This is a little more complicated, but the result is practicality and aesthetic appearance.
IMPORTANT! Regardless of the method of making the frame (cardboard base or wire), the back side of the kokoshnik should be covered with fabric (chiffon, thin brocade, tulle).
The kokoshnik is ready. Now we can use it for its intended purpose and look great at any costume party!