Such a classic product as trousers occupies a special niche in both women's and men's wardrobes. They are used to create many looks and styles, giving the outfit a certain rigor and sophistication.
Many needlewomen, using their cutting and sewing skills, independently sew trousers to obtain an original and unique product. A special place in sewing is occupied by the processing of the codpiece. Knowing the distinctive features and following the progress of the work, processing the codpiece will not take much time.
Preparation for the technological process
The codpiece is a kind of valve, which is necessary for the location of the fastener (zipper or buttons) on the trousers. On men's products it is located from left to right, in women's trousers - vice versa.
The main feature of this detail is facing. This is the familiar strip of material that hides the zipper behind it. Classic products without this piece of material look tasteless and sometimes vulgar.Therefore, facing on dress pants is essential.
Slope consists of 2 parts that are located under the sewn zipper. It guarantees convenience when fastening the zipper.
Before sewing work, it is necessary to prepare all the materials necessary for sewing.
Tools:
- pencil pin (chalk will also work);
- sewing centimeter or ruler;
- safety pins;
- threads to match the product;
- lightning;
- needle;
- sewing machine.
When all the materials and tools are ready, you can start working.
Advice! Sewing work must be carried out on a horizontal, flat surface.
Processing the codpiece on men's trousers
Processing of the codpiece should begin when the trousers, with the exception of the bottom hem, are completely ready. In the male version, the component is located from left to right.
Progress:
- We place the trousers on the wrong side and try on the location of the zipper. We put the first mark. Then we mark the conclusion of the lightning and put a second mark.
- Using safety pins, carefully connect the trouser legs along the middle seam, connecting the location of the marks. We sew down the trouser legs, gradually removing unnecessary pins. On the back, along the seam, you need to leave a section of about 15 cm.
- Stepping back about a centimeter, carefully iron the right side in the area of the zipper allowance. After processing, sew on the zipper using small stitches.
- Now the cut for the slope remains unprocessed. It needs to be processed with an overlocker.
- After processing, we slowly connect the slope and the one-piece facing, making sure that the cuts are correctly positioned. Turn the trousers right side out and stitch them together. Now you need to iron the part again.
- After processing, carefully baste the part under the zipper (on the right side) and sew it to the product.
- Left side of the codpiece carefully iron on the reverse side. Using pins, we connect the left and right fabrics, monitoring the location of the front line. Sew the one-piece facing area to the zipper tape. Without touching the slope, we sew a line along the left trouser leg. In the lower part, we grab the slope when laying the seam.
- If there is a lining, it can be completely attached to the codpiece or on one side.
The codpiece has been processed. The work requires few sewing skills and a minimum of free time.
Processing the female version of trousers with a codpiece
The main difference between classic women's trousers is the location of the codpiece and its components: from right to left. Otherwise, the progress of the work is almost identical to the previous version.
Reference! Modern fashion designers and couturiers produce women's products with a loose codpiece. Also, when sewing, fabric of a different shade is often used.
Processing stages:
- First of all, it is necessary to note the measurements of the location of the zipper. Then we start sewing.
- Carefully stitch the inner right edge of the facing and place it right side to the right side of the trouser leg. Sew, cut off excess seam allowances.
- Fold the front sides and stitch the cuts.
- Now we connect the sewing machine to work: skip the line along the right edge.
- We carefully process the left side with a hot iron from the wrong side. Using safety pins, pin the zipper to the trousers. We sew our fastener on a sewing machine. We attach the other half of the zipper to the right side and sew a line, gradually removing the pins.
- We sew the facing to the right half of the trousers, not reaching the bottom edge a few millimeters.
- We fold the slope and grind the rounded part of the cuts. Then iron it thoroughly.Using pins, we attach the components to the left half on top of the braid. The cut allowance must be sewn with the bevel on the left edge.
- We lay a finishing stitch to the end of the zipper and fasten the slope. Then we sew a line on the front half of the trousers.
Processing is complete. The technological process takes no more than an hour of free time.
Advice! For competent work, many experts recommend short training sessions on processing codpieces on unnecessary wardrobe items.
Conclusion
Processing the codpiece and its components occupies a special place when sewing classic trousers. Illiterate actions or an incorrect sequence of steps can lead to damage to the product, and correcting errors that occur is quite difficult. Compliance with all recommendations and correct calculations will help to carry out accurate and consistent processing, making the product attractive and unique.
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