In the modern world, fashion does not stand still and the main trend today is women's skinny trousers that fit the figure. Each owner of the fair sex with a good figure has already purchased this item, but ladies with other parameters can turn to a tailor to tailor them.
How to sew women's trousers, tapered at the bottom
To sew tapered women's trousers, we need a pattern. With her help, we can sew them to any size and experiment with their details, thereby hiding flaws or emphasizing the client’s advantages. The choice of fabric also plays an important role, because in order for this item to fit well, the fabric must stretch. That's why You need to choose stretch material.
How to correctly take measurements for a pattern of women's trousers with the perfect fit
In order to start cutting, you need to take measurements. We will need not only basic measurements, but also additional ones.
To construct a drawing of women's skinny trousers, we will need the following measurements:
- Fri (waist semi-circumference);
- PB (hip semi-circumference) is measured at the protruding points of the buttocks;
- Dkol (height from waist to knee);
- Chipboard (pants length);
- Sun (seat height) is measured in a sitting position from the waist;
- Lunch (thigh circumference);
- Ok (knee circumference);
- He (calf circumference);
- Shn (bottom width).
On a note!
When making a drawing, it is recommended to add 1 cm to the waist and 2 cm to the hips when cutting.
What is special about the pattern of tight women's trousers?
To construct this drawing, take the basic pattern of classic trousers. And when cutting tapered ones, the tailor himself corrects the necessary measurements directly on the drawing.
Tapered ones differ from classic ones in that:
- the width at the bottom is smaller;
- the width at the knee is greater than at the bottom;
- The length is mostly ankle length or higher.
Take these features into account when creating a pattern.
Step-by-step construction of a pattern for tapered women's trousers
To make a drawing of women's tapered trousers, we will need a ready-made basic pattern of classic trousers. And using it we will customize the pattern for sewing tapered ones.
We set aside all the necessary measurements for the length of the trousers.
On the basic pattern of classic trousers we prepared, we set aside the length of the narrow trousers from the waist down according to these measurements and add an additional 2 cm. We will need these extra centimeters for hems when sewing.
To spend ironing line you need to divide the lines of the hips, knees and legs in half, and draw it through their centers along the entire drawing.
We create a pattern according to the width of the trousers
Now let's draw our Width measurements on pattern. We calculate:
- ½ hip circumference from our measurements;
- ½ knee circumference;
- ½ leg circumference.
Let's draw additional lines.
- From the seat height line downwards, set aside 8-9 cm and draw a horizontal line - hip circumference.
Important!
The knee circumference will match the knee line on the dress pants pattern.
- We set aside about 15 cm from the knee line down - this will be the leg circumference line.
- For the front part of the drawing, subtract 1 cm from ½ the circumference of the hips and from the point of intersection of the hip line with the ironing line in the center, set aside the segments obtained from the calculations in both directions.
- We do the same with measurements of knee circumference and leg circumference. We lay the resulting segments along the knee line and along the leg line at the points where they intersect with the ironing line.
- We shorten the seat line by 7 mm and raise it by 1 cm. And then we connect all our marks on the pattern, which we marked according to the measurements on the pattern for skinny trousers.
The front part of the drawing is ready.
Now let's move on to the back.
We take the data from our measurements and calculate ½ the volume of the thigh and add 1 cm, then along the thigh girth line from the central point of its intersection with the ironing line in both directions we set aside these segments. We do the same calculations with measurements of the knee girth and leg girth and indicate them on the drawing.
In the drawing of the back, always add 1 cm to the hip line on both sides, It’s better to remove the excess later at the fitting. This is done so that there is a reserve.
Tips for a novice seamstress on how to create the correct pattern for tapered women's trousers
Pay attention to the important aspects of pattern construction:
- To get the pattern right, you need to take accurate measurements using a centimeter.
- To sew tight pants, you will need measurements not only those taken for dress pants, but also additional ones. After all, everyone’s figure is different and additional measurements will help to tailor the pattern for a given client to his figure.
- When cutting, you should have the following parts: two front and two back halves; four parts for the front of the belt and two for the back; two parts for sewing a pocket and five strips for belt loops.
Be careful, follow the algorithm exactly, and you will get tapered trousers that are ideal for your personal parameters.
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