What role does clothing play in our lives? Surely it reflects character, mood and some other aspects of our life. As you know, you are greeted by your clothes, but seen off by your intelligence. This phrase takes on special meaning if it is a movie character's outfit. Why is a stage costume so important for an actor and who generally creates his image in films?
What is a stage costume and why is it important for an actor?
An actor's clothing for a film is an integral part of his image, helping to transform himself, a means of artistic influence. It demonstrates the external signs of the character and characterizes him. It can be called a second skin. The task of a costume designer—that’s what those who create the clothes of “movie” characters are called—is to sew them in such a way that they not only do not interfere, but that they want to embody a certain image on the screen.
Reference. It is wrong to think that a stage costume is just clothing. This concept also includes hairstyle, makeup and various accessories - umbrellas, bags, jewelry, etc.
The hero's outfit from the first minutes of the film should say a lot about himself and about the era in which the action takes place. Clothing and properly selected accessories should create authentic images of the characters, reveal their inner world, and also correspond to the style of the picture. A poorly tailored suit can “destroy” an actor, while a good one can “raise” him, point out the main personality traits of the character, and help him better get used to the role.
Interesting. The famous film director Claude Autant-Lara argued that costumes in films should be created in order to dress the characters. He believed that stage clothing is one of the main components of the film, not only from the point of view of history, but also psychologically.
In addition to expressing psychological characteristics, the costume demonstrates the social status of the hero. By it you can unmistakably recognize whether a character is rich or poor, whether he is a military man, a nobleman, etc. In addition, a specially tailored outfit can change the actor’s figure - this is achieved through a special cut. This is necessary when creating costumes for characteristic roles, as well as for characters living in a certain era.
Sometimes an actor's costume becomes a symbol in its own right. It is no longer seen as just a piece of clothing, but is perceived as a kind of demonstration of the director’s intentions. It takes on the meaning of a kind of metaphor.
An example of such an image is Charlie Chaplin's outfit. A bowler hat and a cane speak of success, but a baggy frock coat and trousers that don’t fit in size cause disappointment, as if saying that life has failed. All together creates a convincing and unforgettable image, symbolizing the so-called little man.
How to create costumes for actors
Even during preparation for filming, sketches of stage outfits are drawn; in the work, the artist is guided by the idea underlying the dramaturgy, the director's plan, and is guided by the style of the future film and the character of the characters. The type of fabric, style, and color of clothing are selected, thanks to which the image of the hero is revealed, becomes more “voluminous” or, conversely, “invisible”.
If you need to create an image of a character from a historical or fantasy film, the artist focuses on the style of a certain era or shows imagination. When thinking through a modern outfit, it would seem that the help of a specialist is not required. But that's not true. Even if the hero’s costume looks like an ordinary one, this does not mean that it is an everyday element of the wardrobe - “movie” outfits are sewn specially or rented.
Reference. When clothes for filming are purchased in a store, items from unrecognizable brands are chosen, unless the brand of wardrobe items is designed to emphasize the status of the hero.
Sometimes during a film it is necessary to show how the same clothes change over time. To do this, several copies of the costumes are sewn, some of which are artificially aged. For example, for the main character of the film Gone with the Wind, 27 copies of the same outfit were made, which differed only in the degree of wear.
The designer of the film "Seven" purchased clothes for the characters at second-hand stores or sewed them, and then artificially made them "very worn out." To achieve this, buttons on suits were broken, wardrobe items were “baked” in the oven, repainted and washed several times. As a result, the recently purchased item looked as if it had been worn for a very long time.
Who dresses the actors: famous costume designers
“Oscar” can undoubtedly be called the highest award in the world of cinema.In the 21st century, 19 films have received awards for best costume design. The accurately recreated historical outfits deserve special recognition from film critics and judges. Sometimes the film itself, which received an award for best stage images, turns out to be unremarkable, but there are exceptions when the film receives awards in different categories. So who are they - the best of the best, masters of their craft, costume designers who have received worldwide recognition?
The winner of the “costume” figurine was the film “Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them.” The central element of the wardrobe, created by Colleen Atwood, was the coat of the hero Newt Scamander. It has an unusual so-called gasoline color, and was produced in the amount of 12 copies.
Reference. Designer Colleen Atwood's portfolio includes such films as "Alice in Wonderland", "Memoirs of a Geisha" (also winners of costume statuettes), "The Silence of the Lambs", and "Sleepy Hollow". During her career, the designer was nominated 10 times and “found her heroine” three times.
In full accordance with the genre orientation of the film “The Grand Budapest Hotel,” namely, ironic-utopian, the outfits of its characters were created. Milena Canonero chose rainbow, truly “fabulous” colors for them - purple, red, pink, gold. The main material of the costumes was felt.
Another film for which Milena Canonero designed outfits was also awarded with a statuette: “Marie Antoinette.” The costumes do not pretend to be historically accurate, although the artist has preserved the original cut of the clothes of that era. In general, the style of the outfits can be called a “triumph of Rococo.”
I received a statuette and, without a doubt, the original Great Gatsby painting.Its costume designer is Catherine Martin, and such “giants” as Prada, Tiffany & Co. and Brooks Brothers took part in the creation of clothes for the film. It is quite natural that the excitement around the outfits of the characters in the film arose long before its release.
To create the luxurious costumes for The Golden Age, artist Alexandra Byrne employed an entire production department. When developing the sketches, the designer was largely guided by non-portrait outfits of Queen Elizabeth. She created the image for the actress playing the main role, Cate Blanchett, “listening” to her own intuition. The entire history of the so-called golden age was recreated using color.
When listing the world-renowned “costume makers,” I would like to mention Pat Field, the artist who created the outfits for the TV series and film “Sex and the City.” It was she who was “responsible” for the images of four friends - the heroines of the film, including Pat’s “work” - Carrie’s wedding dress allegedly from Vivienne Westwood.
Now she is 72 years old, and in 2013, according to Time Out magazine, she was recognized as the most stylish resident of New York.
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