A fitted jacket, which came to us from the English wardrobe, looks great on slender, tall men. Suits of German styles and cut are more suitable for overweight people. The athletes are shown items made in accordance with the European canon.
The following rules will help you navigate and choose the right store. Well, the purchase itself should take place after taking measurements and independently determining the size. This knowledge will help you understand whether mass production is capable of offering a specific person a ready-made set, or whether the suit, due to the atypical figure, will have to be made independently.
How to determine the correct size?
The most productive way: take measurements and compare the results with the size chart. However, these numbers need to be adjusted in one direction or another if there are features in the figure (as an example, the combination of a narrow waist and pumped up arms is worth mentioning). It is also worth considering the type of cut and style of the product.
Important! Due to the fact that European, Russian and Asian size designations do not match, you should rely on summary tables that simultaneously show international, domestic and European markings.
Knowing your chest volume and having a normal figure, you will be able to do without a size chart. You just need to divide the volume by 2. With trousers the situation is more complicated, but the principle is similar. The resulting waist circumference is also divided by 2, but a few centimeters are added to the resulting value. So, with a waist circumference of 93 cm, size 52 pants are worn.
Taking measurements
Correct organization of the process:
you need flexible tape;- the centimeter does not need to be tightened or loosened;
- the person being measured must stand straight, without tensing his muscles or drawing in his stomach;
- position of the legs when taking measurements: heels together, toes apart;
- clothing can cause an unacceptable error (more than 0.5 cm), so it is better to take measurements from a person who is wearing nothing but underwear.
you need flexible tape;Basic measurements and methods for taking them
- Neck circumference. From behind, a centimeter is placed directly above the 7th vertebra. On the sides, the tape should run along the base of the neck. In front it is reduced to the jugular cavity (the tape should not pass at the level of the bottom point of the recess, but along its upper border). The measurement will help when choosing a shirt.
- Chest circumference. At the back, a line is placed along the shoulder blades, at the front - along the most protruding part of the chest.
- Hip girth. Passes along the most prominent points of the buttocks. The edge of the lower abdomen is grasped from the front. The edges of the tape should be crossed on the side of the leg.
- Waist circumference. The tape is placed over the waist line. It is important not to pull the centimeter; it should not dig into soft tissue.
- Length of the product. From the 7th vertebra down to the desired point.In this case, the centimeter should not go straight, but follow the physiological curve of the back.
Men's suit size chart
Choosing the size of jacket and trousers
When choosing a jacket, be guided by the fact that, in accordance with traditional norms, a classic model should completely hide the hips. This is the low point. We talked about the top one earlier – the 7th vertebra. The distance between them is the ideal length of the jacket. The resulting value can be adjusted upward by a few cm, but no more. With a significant increase in the indicator, elongated models will be available, which are not universal: They are not suitable for all cases.
Important! If you need a loose jacket, then when taking measurements, the tape is led directly from one point to another. A fitted silhouette requires a different approach: a tape measure is placed along the anatomical curves of the back.
When determining the sleeve length, a correctly selected shirt is sometimes taken as a reference point. In this part it should be 0.6-2 cm longer than the jacket. For plump and muscular men, width also matters. The sleeve should not tightly fit the arm even if the model has a fitted silhouette. This is not only unsightly, but also impractical: clothes in the problem area can literally burst and come apart at the seams.
An incorrectly selected jacket can also be easily identified by the shoulder seam. If it stands upright or hangs to one side, the clothes are clearly too big. The same can be said about cases where the shoulder area does not lie flat, but gathers into folds or, conversely, is overly stretched, causing the collar to move to the side.
Important! The shoulder should rest on the shoulders. If it extends beyond it, then the jacket is too wide.Exception: things made in accordance with the fashion trend, according to which you need to broaden your shoulders in every imaginable and inconceivable way. The bottom of such jackets usually, on the contrary, serves to artificially hide the size of the hips.
Narrowness is indicated not only by the excessive fit of the sleeve, but also by the appearance of the product with the top button fastened. If at the same time folds emanating to the sides, similar to “X”, are formed, then it is worth trying on a larger item.
There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to trousers. There are 2 ways to determine the length of a trouser leg. Both are widely used, but are mutually exclusive. First option: the trouser leg should form a fold above the shoe. Second: it should end earlier, at the level of the bone. The latter method is now more in demand, but the first is considered the most traditional and classic - it is used when it is necessary to comply with an extremely strict, conservative and official dress code.
For those who want to be fashionable and are not burdened by conventions or requirements for appearance, you can take the third path and start buy trousers whose leg ends right above the bone. In this case, regular shoes without a top will end much earlier than the pants. An open area of the body will be visible between them. Fashionistas partially fill this gap with socks, but the strip of skin should still remain free and bare.
Size selection example
Given:
- chest volume: 98;
- waist size: 101.
Divide the first indicator by 2, we get size 49. We look at the table for chest volume, we get size 54. With such a strong difference between the top and bottom, you will have to either purchase things separately, or buy a ready-made set, based on the larger value (size 54).In the latter case, you will have to give the jacket for alteration (it will definitely hang).
Nuances you need to know about
Short men should buy trousers that are slightly shorter than normal (we are talking about the first 2 selection methods). This length will visually elongate the figure a little. AND Don't worry if, while sitting, your trouser leg rises up so high that your body becomes visible - this is normal, unless the exposed area is longer than a few centimetersV. In Japan, showing a small area of skin between socks and pants while sitting is generally considered a manifestation of restrained male sexuality.
Overweight people often have another problem - dissonance between the width of the jacket in the area of the stomach and shoulders. In this case, it’s worth considering whether moving all the buttons will solve the problem. If so, then you should take something that is a little narrow at the waist (make sure that the buttons don’t end up too close to the edge). If the difference in parameters is too great, then, on the contrary, you need to take a looser jacket (one that corresponds to your waist size). In this situation, you will have to take the item to the studio to have the shoulder area adjusted.
For large men, a straight cut of trousers is also recommended, without narrowing the legs. And if thin people should buy things that fit and emphasize the buttocks, then fat people should remember that in a sitting position the volume of the lower abdomen increases. If they buy trousers that fit strictly in the front pocket area, they will feel uncomfortable in them. A little freedom in this part of the product, specifically for this category of men, will not hurt at all. The rest should strive for a fit.
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