Whatever you sew specifically: a skirt, dress, cloak or robe, processing the bottom of the panel will be a necessary final stage. There are many ways to hem a hem, from basic to exotic. We will tell you in detail about the types of existing seams and how to properly process the product.
Necessary materials and tools for sewing
What you need for sewing:
- Ideally, you need an overlocker; it will carefully trim the fabric and overcast the edge of both thick and thin fabric. In the absence of one, we use a sewing machine with a narrow zigzag stitch.
- Threads in tone, as well as contrasting ones, for marking.
- A comfortable, thin, sharp needle for hand sewing, indispensable for all types of hand stitches.
- Sharp scissors.
- Chalk or soap.
- Pins for fixing the hem.
- Special machine double needle. Used for knitwear.
Types of seams
The hem of the skirt can be hemmed by hand or by machine. The cuts can be:
Closed bevel seam
The edge of the fabric is not visible; it is either rolled up or covered with other details, for example, a cuff.
Open cut seams
The overlaid edge of the fabric is visible on the wrong side of the product.
The variety of edge seams is shown in the picture.
It is worth highlighting:
Goat seam
Now considered obsolete, runs:
- We fold the fabric, then make cross stitches.
- The disadvantages include the fact that you get long stretches of thread on the wrong side. The seam is noticeable and fragile.
- Be sure to steam on a soft substrate using an iron so that the seam is minimally imprinted.
A “goat” is possible, the threads of which are mostly located between the folded layers of fabric, but it is more difficult to sew.
"American"
Designed for thin, translucent fabrics, such as chiffon. Stages of work:
- Use your fingers to roll the edge of the fabric into a small roll.
- Then carefully stick a needle into it at a short distance and sew on the very edge of the roller.
- Steam through thick fabric.
Blind hem
There are several options:
Most of the stitching occurs inside the hem, with the needle only occasionally coming out, catching a few threads of the main fabric, and then returning inside the hem.
Be sure to steam it with an iron.
Moscow seam
The seam is done by machine. For the seam, select threads that are as identical as possible in the color of the fabric:
- The needle is thin, preferably new, without jagged edges.
- We do a minimal hem.
- We sew the line close to the edge.
- Trim the excess fabric as close to the stitching as possible.
- We turn it up.
- Repeat stitching.
- We iron it easily through a thick iron.
Processing with bias tape
In this case, the trim plays the role of a decorative element. Suitable for tulle, chiffon, organza, mesh:
- The binding can be taken ready-made, but it is possible to cut it from the fabric at an angle of 45 degrees.
- We put a piece of fabric into the bias tape.
- We bend it.
- Secure with pins.
- We stitch it.
- Iron it.
Stitched single hem
Ideal for knitted and other elastic fabrics:
- We process the edge with an overlock or a narrow zigzag stitch.
- We make a small hem of 0.7-1 cm.
- We sew it on the machine, close enough to the line.
- Iron it.
Stitched double hem
Suitable for thick fabrics:
- The edge need not be processed so as not to thicken the structure.
- We make a double hem, wide enough, up to 2-4 cm.
- Place a stitch close to the edge of the folded material.
- Steam.
How to hem a skirt with a blind seam by hand and by machine?
Sequence of work:
- Iron the skirt.
- Let's try it on.
- We outline the required length. You can not only mark with chalk, but also lay a hand basting stitch.
Advice! It is convenient to carry out marking work using a thread or fishing line stretched at the required level.
Knitted skirt
On thick knitwear, not a hidden stitch, but, on the contrary, a double stitch looks good. Ideally, it is performed with a special double needle and foot. You get two strictly parallel lines.
The same stitching is done on a denim skirt.
For thin knitwear, a single collar or American is suitable.
Cotton skirt
First of all, different types of blind hems, as well as double hems.
Chiffon skirt
For delicate American chiffon, Moscow seam, processing with bias tape is also suitable.
Wool skirt
A neat goat, single hem or hidden hem works well.
Expert advice
Useful advice from professionals will always come in handy:
Before processing the hem of the skirt, you need to let it hang on the hangers.If you are sewing a skirt cut on the bias, then even before you start cutting the fabric, you also need to take the shape and sag under the weight.
We take into account the overall width of the skirt; the larger it is, the narrower the hem. The narrowest skirt is the sun, single, as well as double, triple.
You should not follow progress and fix the hem of the skirt with an adhesive pad, mesh or solid. This hem will not last longer than a couple of washes. Always sew the fabric, in any way possible.
The entire ensemble as a whole largely depends on how carefully your skirt is hemmed. Thickening along the edge or a suddenly bursting thread will not decorate anyone. But a high-quality hem always gives off top-class clothing. You just need to master the basic techniques, which is not difficult at all.