Current fashion trends are no longer focused on displaying boldness and strength. Underground, military, and unisex styles are losing relevance. Femininity and romanticism are back in fashion, which means the main emphasis is on the skirt.
New trends in skirt tailoring
Elongation Mini or midi skirts, due to the additionally sewn lower part, add romantic features to the strict business silhouette of the original item. At the same time, such a thing remains relevant for wearing to work, since it does not look frivolous, but now you can easily wear it after work, for example, to a restaurant. Multi-layer ruffles sewn onto the upper yoke also look impressive. Such a multi-tiered product gives its owner a flirty look.
New trend - trains, creating the effect of solemnity and majesty. The second name of the train is tren. A skirt with a train has a transition in length from shorter in front to longer in back.Such trains can be seen at wedding ceremonies of royal families. Of course, the wedges of the trains do not have to be made all the way to the floor. Modern skirts with trains include transitions from mini to midi, and transitions from midi to calf-length. Such things look airy and very beautifully emphasize the dignity of the owner’s figure and legs.
IMPORTANT! When making long products with a train, you must take into account for what purposes the item will be used. The length of the train “to the floor” is appropriate only for special events, since it creates inconvenience for both its owner and the people around who may step on the train. It is best to choose the length of the train such that there is at least 10 cm left to the floor.
Sewing on top of the main additional outer part made of lightweight transparent materials gives the product lightness, and gives its owner a certain degree of mystery and at the same time playfulness. Options are quite appropriate when the outer lightweight part is not completely sewn together, but remains with a cut in the front like a mantle. Then, when walking, it will flutter beautifully in the wind, emphasizing the ease of gait.
Skirt with crinoline (with a petticoat) is an element of 19th century fashion that is being revived today thanks to its creation of a charming femininity effect. The upper part of a slightly shorter length is put on the petticoat. The bottom edge of the petticoat, protruding from under the top, creates the impression of layering and pomp. The color contrast between the crinoline and the top further enhances this effect.
Materials for outer skirts
Outer skirts sewn on top of the main skirt are best made from thin transparent materials: tulle, guipure, tulle.In this case, the inner part has a denser base: linen, cotton, possibly polyester.
If the outer part, on the contrary, is put on a petticoat, then the petticoat should be made of a lighter fabric, preferably cotton with a guipure frill. It would also be quite appropriate to use silk for a petticoat. The outer part in this case can even be made of the heaviest fabrics such as velvet or wool.
Skirts with a train are most impressive when made from satin, although other light fabric options are also allowed.
Products elongated due to additional inserts can be made of the same type of material, although they look more interesting if the lower insert is lightweight. For example, an excellent combination would be to make the upper part and yoke from denim, and the lower additional part from cambric. The contrast of the colors of the materials will only benefit the product.
IMPORTANT! Synthetic materials very often create static tension between themselves, which leads to unpleasant consequences: clothes stick to the body, click, spark. When creating multilayer products, it is very desirable to avoid combinations of several synthetic materials, preferring compositions from synthetic and natural materials.
How to sew a skirt onto a skirt
The process of creating a composition of two- and multi-layer skirts usually, but not necessarily, begins with a pattern, both with the main one, in the case of creating an item from scratch, and with an additional one, in the case when a change is made to an already finished product.
Sew on a tulle skirt
If additional wedges are not expected in the upper skirt, then the pattern is made using the standard method with measuring the circumference of the waist and hips (with a small margin taking into account the presence of the lower skirt), constructing a semicircle sector based on them and extending the side line with a smooth expansion to the full length.
Next, the part is carefully hemmed to the waist part of the petticoat, then the remaining cut is sewn with a stitch seam. The edges of the stitched seam are sewn with an overlock stitch on an overlocker. If the bottom yoke has a high belt, you can rip off the belt and sew the upper part under it, then re-stitch the product.
A tulle tutu skirt does not require a pattern. In this case, the tulle strips are simply sewn together, wave folds are made at the top, and the fabric is cut to a single length at the bottom and overcast. In this form, the tutu is sewn onto the petticoat.
Making a train from satin
To make the train, a special pattern is prepared. Its base is the same as that of a regular skirt pattern, but the length of the semicircle is made uneven. In the center of the semicircle, in its lower part, a parabola is drawn in a smooth transition, the top point of which is the maximum length of the train.
The sewing of the main part with the train is done in the usual way using a stitched seam with overcasting the edges of the seam and the edges of the item. The procedures described above are suitable for the manufacture of products with a train made of various materials.
Do not forget that satin is a soft and slippery material, so when stitching it, the stitching lines are visible visually. Since in our case the seam is made from the front, it would be appropriate to move it to the back.Then, when making a pattern for a satin skirt, it is the central part of the semicircle that is left short, and two semi-parabolas are drawn on the left and right, giving the output the back seam of the product.
Create a fluffy petticoat
A fluffy tulle petticoat is made without a pattern. The tulle square is folded four times to obtain the required number of layers. The waist circumference is measured and the resulting number is divided by 16. The result of the division is plotted from the angle diagonally to a certain point. A straight line is drawn through the point and a cut is made along it. The required length of the skirt is set aside from the cutting line further diagonally. A sector of the circle is drawn, where the diagonal of the square is the radius. Further, along the sector line, all excess material is cut off. As a result, after unfolding, you get four circles, which are the blank for the future petticoat.
A sector is cut out in each of the four circles (to reduce the total volume), and then the circles are sequentially sewn into one another until a four-layer fluffy structure is obtained. All that remains is to finish the seams and sew an elastic band into the waist. The petticoat is ready.
Basic rules for sewing a skirt onto a skirt
To obtain high-quality finished products, you should follow a number of basic rules:
- Select materials to match each other so that the overall composition is harmonious.
- Take into account static stresses, and therefore avoid combining synthetic fabrics, alternating synthetic and natural materials.
- On upper skirts, add 1–2 cm to the waist and hip lines when cutting, taking into account that these centimeters are occupied by the lower base.
- Check to what extent the materials are able to hide the seams, and place the seams taking these indicators into account.
- Avoid on skirts with floor-length trains, shortening the length by at least 10 cm.
- Be sure to overcast the edges of the seams and the hem of the finished products so that the skirts retain their elegant appearance for as long as possible and do not fray.
By following new trends in skirt tailoring, you can replenish your wardrobe with many beautiful, trendy items. The costs will be minimal, the manufacturing technology will be simple, and the admiration of others will be sincere.