Pleated skirt pattern

A pleated skirt is a universal part of a woman’s wardrobe and one of the most important basic elements of a stylish suit. It looks good on girls and ladies, suitable for a girl. This product gives grace to the figure, of course, if it is correctly combined with other items.

The folds themselves vary in direction and shape, creating a businesslike look or a frivolous yoke. They never lose their relevance, so by choosing the appropriate skirt, you will always look fashionable.

Variety of pleated skirt styles

Length

Depending on the length, there are several types of products.

• Maxi. The length ranges from the traditional “floor-length” to “ankle-length”. Makes a woman slim, helping to hide imperfections.
• Midi. Length below the knee line, but above the ankle mark. Suitable for tall beauties, but for short ones it can hide their already short stature.
• Mini. Does not reach the knees by about a palm's length. Looks great on proportionally built girls with beautiful legs, regardless of height.
• Micro.A very short product that slightly covers the line of the buttocks. Can be worn on vacation in the summer, but the figure must be perfect.

Models

Among the famous styles of pleated skirts are the following.

• Pencil: straight cut, knee length, fits the figure. Ideal in classic and business styles.
• Tulip: the cut resembles this flower - the hips are hidden, the bottom is narrowed.
• A-line: The shape associated with this letter, expanding from the waistline downwards like a trapezoid.
• Bell: bell-shaped, sits loosely on the hips.
• Gaudet: sewn exactly to the figure and only at the very bottom it expands in the shape of a fish.
• Pleated: the cut is loose, from the waist there are pintucks of the required size in the appropriate quantity.
• Pleated: sewn from material in the same small pleat, has a loose fit.
• Cargo: a straight-cut army-style product with lots of decoration, represented by belt loops and pockets.
• Skirt-shorts: sewn in the form of two halves of wide shorts or with an addition in the form of a piece of fabric on top.
• Skirt-pants: perfectly combines the features of a formal suit and casual comfortable clothing. The voluminous trousers look like a skirt.

Important! Modern designers use pleats on almost any style of women's skirts.

How to sew a pleated skirt

Folds and their originality

The varieties of such tucks are varied. They can be one-sided, counter, bow, fan. Such tucks are made in different ways: they can be directly on the belt, partly stitched, ironed and soft.

This element has width and depth. A full-volume fold is more than twice as deep as it is wide.

Important! To reduce fabric consumption, the assembly is made incomplete by reducing its depth.

The cascading shape is supported by a brace that “disappears” at the waist. The length of this element is determined by the height of the rise, which is a free area where the stitching is not stitched. The brace of the lower part of the product decreases along with the flight.

Place tucks along the arrows on the outside of the fabric. Whereas their markings are done from the inside out with a special chalk or felt-tip pen.

In this case, a paper pattern is not needed; it is done directly on the fabric.

The folded edge of the outer plan is taken in accordance with the brace and brought to the next brace (marked with blue lines). The edge of the inner part is drawn by a dotted line.

Skirt with counter pleat

This element is represented by two single-sided assemblies that dock with each other. The stitched section starts at the waist and ends with a mark at the hip line.

To make the drawing, we make a cut in the center of the front pattern and lay it on both parts of the sacking of the required depth. Without fail, we form a brace and outline the height of the departure - its outer edge. These parts should be laid towards the center.

Before making the markings, a hem is sewn along the bottom of the skirt, ironed inside out.

The algorithm for creating counter-type bends can be seen in the photo: both lines of departures are chopped off using pins and swept away.

Sew the tuck to the level of the mark, smooth it with a hot iron, and remove the basting thread.

Skirt with bow pleats

This element is formed by two one-sided assemblies, diverging in opposite directions from the center. From the inside, a counter fold is obtained. There can be many such details, which are called counter or bow details, throughout the entire width of the skirt.

The algorithm for forming the bow version is shown in detail in the lower photos. We draw the basting along the contour of the flyaway, iron it with a hot iron, and tuck the tucks to the center line of the front half.

We sew all the gathers one by one, starting from the waist to the marking line.

Skirt with fan pleat

This is the same counter variation, only including several similar ones at once.

This the model can be open or closed.

A closed fold, when not opened, is very similar to a regular counter fold. But the braces are cut out only at the top ones, which go “into the face.”

In the bottom photo you can see the closed assembly model from the inside and top side.

The open version is cut with slopes on each of the folds.

In this situation, an interesting technique can be used to reduce the thickness due to the multilayered nature of dense matter. We measure the pintucks, mark the length of the seams and cut off the excess material, leaving a few centimeters for the seams.

We fold the pintucks, iron them with a hot iron, and tie the top with thread.

We sew the gathers horizontally so that they do not diverge.

Skirt with partially stitched pleats

Skirt trims are sometimes partially sewn in, starting from the very top and up to a certain length. Most often it does not exceed three quarters of the vertical size. Optimally - up to the femoral mark.

Below you can see the ratio of brace to departure. It is clearly visible that as the stitch goes down, the brace gradually decreases.

Important! Based on the cut of the straight skirt, you can create any other folds.

Skirts with circular pleats

To sew such a skirt, you need to make a number of calculations, as well as carefully delve into the cutting process itself.

Preparing for cutting

Let's figure out what the required footage of fabric is and what the principle of cutting it is.

Important! Fabric with a width of 3 m 21 cm is not produced, which means you will have to use cuts whose width is 0.9 m, 1 m 10 cm, 1 m 40 cm, 1 m 50 cm.

In these cases, the joining seams should be hidden on the internal edges of the bends.

Before marking them on the fabric, first fold both patterns from below and iron them to the desired size. All marks are placed on the inside of the fabric.

We set aside one and a half to two centimeters on top and draw a line horizontally across the entire width of the material. This is where the waist will be. We measure approximately 20 centimeters from this line and draw a parallel femoral line.

Formation of folds

Since the joining seams in the volume of the skirt will be formed on the internal ribs, you need to apply markings starting from the edge of the cut, leaving a centimeter allowance for the seam.

• We measure ½ of the fold depth and draw a vertical segment, guided by the longitudinal threads of the material. From this line we outline such values ​​as width and depth, which are repeated in the number of collections.
• Having marked all the tucks, we put a slope on the bottom mark, and at the waist - its narrowing half a centimeter on both sides of their depth. The resulting points are connected by blue lines.
• In this case, the fabric with a width of 1 m 40 cm is enough to form eleven folds, and the entire skirt can accommodate twenty-six. Thus, for a full-fold skirt you need three cuts 1 m 40 cm wide. The remaining fabric can be used to hem the belt.
• To calculate the cut length for the skirt in this example, taking into account the hem and seam allowance, we use the following formula: 3 x (Skirt length +2+4) = 3 x (70+2+4) = 2 m 28 cm.
• Next stage: combine the outer fold with the adjacent tuck, and baste with thread along the markings.
• We sew each fold from top to bottom by hand.Using the basted stitches, we sew a line downwards to the selected length.
• We finish the work with a bartack or a transverse seam to the inner fold. Leave the basting threads in place for now.
• We straighten the gathers along the arrows and iron them with a hot iron from the face, remove the basting thread.

Helpful tips for sewing pleated skirts

• The folds will retain their shape longer if you iron them along both ribs from the inside and away from the face.
• Pieces cut out of cardboard and placed on the inside will help to avoid imprints of the lines of internal folds on the upper side.
• The front gathers on the skirt should be duplicated on the lining fabric.
• The cut of the lining skirt is sewn to the main skirt at the very top, and then the fabric belt is sewn on. The seam from the inside is treated with bean tape to match the lining or with an overlocker.
• If the fabric for the skirt is heavy and dense, then it is better to replace the folds in the lining fabric with darts.

Sewing a skirt with pleats is not a difficult task; you can do it yourself. You just have to show a little attention and ingenuity. This creative work will lift your spirits and give you space for irrepressible imagination.