Armhole - This is an important detail in the design of clothing. The overall appearance and quality of tailoring of the product depends on its shape and size. What is an armhole? Basically, it's a slot for the hand.
Its correct shape is important in clothes of any cut, but especially for styles with sleeves. If the armhole here is poorly cut, then the sleeve will not fit the figure (folds, creases, etc. will form). The item will be uncomfortable to wear (the sleeve will pull or it will simply tear along the set-in seam on the back or in the armpits).
What is an armhole in clothing and how to correctly calculate the armhole yourself? Several options are used.
Option 1. Take your own measurements.
- Place a tape measure on your chest. Measure the distance from shoulder to armpit. This is the depth of the armhole.
- Pull the centimeter under the shoulder and up from behind until it connects with the initial end of the centimeter. It is important that the centimeter should not fit tightly to the body (2 fingers fit freely). This is the full armhole size.
Option 2. Approximate (copying the armhole of your dress or shirt with a good fit).
- Lay the item on the table and measure its depth along the front side, straight down to the bottom point of the armhole.
- Turn the product over to the back side and also measure it with a measuring tape. (usually these two sizes are the same, but there are exceptions).
- We add the measurements on the front and back sides and get the armhole size.
Option 3. Measuring according to the pattern.
- Place a tape measure along the front armhole seam line from the shoulder to the point of contact with the side seam. Allowances do not need to be taken into account.
- Do the same with the back.
- Add these two values and keep in mind that the back measurement may be 1.25 - 1.6 cm larger than the front.
If necessary, before cutting the fabric, the armhole can be slightly adjusted:
- If you need to increase it, make the curved line in the armhole steeper;
- Decrease – make the curve smoother.
So, armhole, what is it? This is a neckline that is cut out to fit the sleeve.
The necklines are high and low. With their help, you can correct your figure, hide flaws and emphasize your strengths.
A high armhole will visually lengthen your body, making you slimmer and taller. The stomach and chest will appear smaller.
Low - will add volume to the chest and make the body shorter.
In addition to high and low, there is also an American armhole - a smooth neckline running from the bottom of the armpit to the neckline. He leaves his shoulders open and walks diagonally. Cutting is similar to cutting out raglan. And the shoulder seam is only 2-2.5 cm.
The American armhole adds charm and sexuality to a woman's look. Often used in evening dresses and wedding dresses.
If you are sewing a knitted dress without sleeves, problems may arise with the fit of the product - the fabric bulges and does not fit well to the body.There are many ways to solve this problem:
- Forming a dart on the chest - you need to pin the excess fabric with a pin and stitch the dart.
- Making the binding - fit the armhole cutout, mark the outline of the seam and sew in the bias cut bias tape.
- Using a soft linen elastic - you need to stretch the elastic and at the same time sew it on top along the perimeter of the neckline.
Sewing is a very interesting activity. There are many nuances in it. And every element in the design matters. And even something as small as an armhole will help you look impeccable. After all, it also determines how the product will fit on you.